What is the purpose of the rotating bezel on a watch?

A watch is not just an object that tells time. Some models include specific features inherited from professional use. The rotating bezel is one of them. This circular element around the glass often sparks curiosity. Yet, it has a well-defined purpose, especially in diving and timekeeping. Understanding what the rotating bezel on a watch is for allows one to appreciate its practical role beyond its aesthetic appearance.

What is the purpose of a rotating bezel on a watch?

The rotating bezel on a watch is a movable ring, graduated or not, that surrounds the glass. It can rotate in one or both directions, depending on the model. Its main purpose is to measure a duration without the need for complex watch complications. By aligning a marker on the bezel with the minute hand, the user can track elapsed time directly on the scale. This function applies in various contexts: diving, sports, travel, or even everyday activities.

Why do diving watches have a rotating bezel?

Almost all modern diving watches use a rotating bezel. This technical addition appeared in the 1950s with iconic models such as the Rolex Submariner or the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The goal was to provide divers with a simple and readable way to monitor their dive time. In this context, the bezel is not decorative but directly related to safety.

How the rotating bezel works in diving

The method is simple. Before descending, the diver aligns the zero marker on the bezel with the minute hand. During the dive, they read the elapsed time by looking at the hand’s position relative to the scale. If the hand points to the 20 mark on the bezel, 20 minutes have passed. The bezel is intentionally unidirectional. It cannot move clockwise. Thus, if it moves accidentally, it artificially increases the displayed time instead of reducing it, preventing the diver from exceeding the planned duration.

Practical example

A diver sets the bezel just before descending to ten meters. Twenty minutes later, the minute hand points to the 20 mark on the bezel. The reading is immediate and requires no mental calculation. This ease of use explains why the bezel has remained a standard feature on diving watches. For anyone wondering how to use a rotating bezel for diving, this procedure is the most reliable and fastest.

Other uses of a rotating bezel on a watch

While diving popularized this feature, the rotating bezel is not limited to this use. It has been adapted to other time- and measurement-related needs.

Measuring countdowns or elapsed time in daily life

In everyday life, the bezel can be used to monitor waiting times or specific durations. Aligning the marker with the minute hand allows checking cooking times or running sessions. The principle is the same as used in diving but applied to daily activities.

Tracking a second time zone with a GMT bezel

Some models use a 24-hour graduated bezel. Combined with a GMT hand, it allows reading a second time zone. Travelers crossing multiple countries set the GMT hand to their reference time and use the bezel to check another time zone.

Calculations and conversions (tachymeter, slide rule)

In aviation and automotive contexts, the rotating bezel has served other purposes. Models equipped with a circular slide rule, like the Breitling Navitimer, allow conversions of distance, speed, or fuel consumption. Other tachymeter bezels help calculate average speed based on time.

An aesthetic and identity element

Many contemporary watches retain a rotating bezel for style. Men’s watches with a rotating bezel are sought after both for their sporty appearance and the historical reference they evoke. Even when the user does not use its functions, the bezel remains a distinctive feature of certain iconic models.

My watch's rotating bezel is stuck

Sometimes a watch’s rotating bezel can get stuck. Several causes are possible. Sand or dust residues accumulate between the bezel and case. Saltwater can cause corrosion if the watch is not rinsed after diving. A shock can also affect the rotation mechanism. To prevent this, it is recommended to rinse the watch regularly after water use and check its condition. If the bezel remains stuck despite cleaning, a watchmaker’s intervention is necessary to preserve the case integrity and water resistance.

How to choose a men's watch with a rotating bezel?

The choice of a men’s watch with a rotating bezel depends on the intended use. For diving, the priority is a unidirectional bezel with a clear luminous marker and readable scale, even in darkness. For travelers, a GMT bezel is suitable as it makes managing multiple time zones easier. For everyday use or style, a steel or ceramic bezel may be preferred for durability and design. Among the best-known models, the Submariner and Seamaster are historical and current reference watches.